John Gimlette's Voyages

Paupers dripping in gold

Big D's Food Mall, , Northwest District (Region 1 - Barima-Waini), Guyana

This is the best (and perhaps only) eatery in Port Kaituma, the gold mining community in NW Guyana. It's called ‘BIG D’S FOOD MALL’, and is painted toothpaste green, and – instead of the usual techno – it emitted gentle chirrups of gospel choir.

A land beneath the sea

A land beneath the sea - The seawall at Meten-Meer-Zorg, Guyana

This is the great seawall at Meten-Meer-Zorg in Guyana. Beyond the wall is the Atlantic looking sludgy and pink, like a desert of sediment except slightly more choppy. This sludge has been carried here from the heart of the South American continent by the Amazon, and this tainting of the sea continues all the way up past Venezuela.

The stirrings of a great slave revolt

Peereboom on the Berbice River

This is Peereboom on the Berbice River, Guyana.

Here, on March 03, 1763, a huge force of rebellious slaves converged on the Dutch planters' house. Stalemate ensued, and so the warring parties agreed a cease fire, with the Dutch being allowed to head for their boats. What happened next would set the mood for the war to come.

South America provides a new pope

Countryside in Paraguay

Although I'm not Catholic, I am very pleased to hear that the Vatican has elected a pope from South America. It's long overdue. The continent provides 40% of the world's Catholics, and no one institution has had such an influence over this continent. At one stage (1609-1768), it even presided over a utopian state, here in Paraguay (pictured) managed by the Jesuits.

The slaves' first sight of South America

River entrance to Stabroek Market

This is the back of the Stabroek Market, Georgetown (Guyana), which, in the late 18th century, had been a slave market. Here, after many days at sea, the African captives got their first sight of the then-Dutch colony of Demerara.

The Polish in South America

Tomb of one Elisabeth Rakcozy

In a few weeks time, I'll be heading out to Poland to launch 'Wild Coast', the book of my travels in Guyana, Suriname and French Guiana. There were several points in my journey where my path crossed with Poles.... Here are three of them. Can you think of other Polish-Guianese connections?

The end of the river, and the end of a great revolt

Berbice River, New Amsterdam

This is New Amesterdam (Guyana), where the Berbice enters the sea. Here is a great, blank estuary, the colour of sharpened knives. I remember thinking how bright it seemed, and how the only shapes were two straggly lines of attenuating mangrove. Out in the glare nothing moved except dolphins, forming soundless hoops of pink and grey, before vanishing in rings.

Some really terrible books

Paraguay

Today, on World Book Day, we celebrate the best of books, and it's a great occasion for young and old. But part of the fun of books is evaluating them. You'll hear alot about great books today .. but what about the bad ones? Here is my list of the worst travel books:-

Caracas mourns the death of Chavez

Venezuela's countryside

For the poor he was a hero, bringing a much-needed redistribution of wealth. For others he was a tyrant, wrecking the economy with populist policies. Either way, he made an indelible impression on his beautiful country, Venezuela (pictured), as a I discovered six years ago.

A world of cave-dwellers and trogolydytes

Small blobs of basalt, atop columns of tapering tuff called."fairy chimneys"

This is Kapadokya or Cappadocia (in Turkey), where for thousands of years, whole cities have been built undergound. All this burrowing needs some explaining.

Like so much that is beautiful, it began with extraordinary violence. At first, the brutality was geological. About seventy million years ago, Mt Erciyes exploded, along with two other volcanoes. They smothered the land first in shortbread (properly known as ‘tuff’) and then a wafer-thin coating of basalt.

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